Can The French Government Really Regulate “Ultra Fast Fashion” And Reduce Waste? They’re Certainly Trying
The environmental harm caused by intensifying clothing consumption has been dealt a challenge in the form of sweeping new changes proposed in France, where the government is working to legislate an increasingly complex industry. The bill was approved by the French Senate on June 10 by 337 votes to 1 and would, if implemented, regulate ultra-fast fashion companies.
Originally introduced by MP Anne-Cécile Violland and supported by Senator Estelle Youssouffa, the bill essentially aims to minimise the environmental impact of ultra-fast fashion brands by taking a multi-pronged approach to the in-country parts of these companies’ operations.
The drafted legislation includes a new eco-score system that assesses emissions, recyclability and resource use, and would need to be communicated to consumers via clear labelling conventions; financial penalties for environmental harm are proposed, including taxes on parcels of between two to four euros per package; marketing would be curbed, with bans on advertising for brands that don’t meet environmental standards and sanctions for influencers who promoted the brands online; and removing tax advantages for “donating” unsold stock by ultra-fast-fashion brands.
It’s an unprecedented move, targeting a segment of the industry that has drawn increasing attention in recent years for its impact on everything from logistics and shipping to textile waste and trend cycles — all at prices that, many believe, suggest exploitative labour conditions, and have been cited as one reason for the closure of domestic brands who couldn’t compete on price.
The fast fashion business model emerged after the off-shoring of production in the 1980s and 1990s and grew bigger and faster thanks to improved global supply chains, logistical efficiencies, e-commerce innovation and audience-building of digital media.
Global clothing production doubled from 2000 to 2014, and the wider fashion landscape has changed markedly in the past two decades. We’ve seen the growth of multinational e-tailers selling high volumes of low-priced clothing and accessories, often made from synthetic materials, for unfathomably low prices, produced in low-wage locations, and a change in the way many people value clothes. This has all been turbo-charged by the rise of “ultra-fast fashion” brands like Temu and Shein, which do all of this quicker, cheaper and with a seemingly infinite range; in 2023 Shein reportedly produced 1.30 million new styles, compared to H&M’s 25,000.
The evolution of retail models and consumer behaviour has had a dramatic impact on consumption and waste. With low prices and high turnover of new styles, people are buying more clothes, more frequently, and wearing them less before throwing them away. 800 million parcels shipped to France last year were from Shein and Temu, over half of all packages, and the country throws out 35 pieces of clothing every second.
Along with shipping emissions, the volume and disposability of fast fashion products contribute to the category’s environmental harm. To achieve the cheap retail prices, garments are commonly made from low-cost textiles like 100% polyester, which, unlike natural fibres such as wool, doesn’t biodegrade.
Textile waste is a growing problem in New Zealand — around 180,000 tonnes of it is thought to be dumped annually — and landfills have seen clothing waste double in recent years, an increasing amount of which is synthetic fast-fashion garments. Mindful Fashion, a non-profit New Zealand industry body, estimates that Kiwi clothing consumption has risen 60% in the past two decades, and items are kept for only half the time they used to be.
Temu began shipping to New Zealand in 2023 and, by 2024, Tearfund estimated as many as one million Kiwis (20% of the population) shopped on the platform. E-commerce data published in February shows that the number of Kiwis doing so is growing, with a 23% increase in spending with retailers like Temu, Shein and Aliexpress.
This growth has been attributed to the platform’s cheap prices, and during a time of economic pressures and the rising cost of living around the world, critics of the French bill claim it punishes low-income households.
Also up for debate is the terminology itself. “Fast fashion” colloquially refers to the cheap, trendy, rapidly-manufactured clothing. Shein, which has European headquarters located in Ireland, rejected the term in its response to the Senate's vote, saying it was “not a fast fashion company”.
The question of definition is addressed by the French bill, which includes the establishment of specific production thresholds. These would also differentiate between “classic” and "ultra" fast fashion, imposing different legislation on each category. It also sees the exclusion of Zara, H&M and Primark, a classification that has drawn criticism, especially as it's a departure from the original iteration of the bill.
Jean-Francois Longeot, chair of the Senate's Committee on Regional Planning and Sustainable Development, said this enables the bill to “target players who ignore environmental, social, and economic realities, notably Shein and Temu, without penalising the European ready-to-wear sector," according to Reuters.
Anti Fast Fashion Coalition spokesperson Pierre Condamine expressed disappointment in the bill’s narrowed scope, arguing that excluding European brands reflects a “protectionist” shift in the current bill, which has been modified since it was approved by France’s Lower House in 2024, and pointed out that the crises facing the French fashion industry pre-date Shein. “It started when fast fashion — Zara, H&M, Primark — arrived.”
However, even in its current, revised form, the bill presents a bold and unprecedented move from a government to regulate the fashion industry and create domestic levers in a globalised market. How that looks in practice and whether it will minimise the environmental damage remains to be seen.
Though the Senate has voted in favour of the bill, there are still more steps required before it’s enacted. The European Commission has to be notified, and some parts of the legislation will need sign-off at that level, and the bill will go to a joint committee to align the two versions of the legislation and reach a resolution.
With many countries, including New Zealand, also grappling with the impact of ultra-fast fashion on their local industry and environment, France’s experiment will likely be closely watched. It’s a timely reminder that while there's still a road ahead, progress is possible. Here at home, choosing natural, locally sourced materials and supporting Christchurch-based manufacturing isn't just a business decision, it's a reflection of our values.
It’s not about being perfect, but about being purposeful. Showing that thoughtful, community-rooted alternatives can lead the way.
